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Commit 5da49b43 authored by David Huss's avatar David Huss :speech_balloon:
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Update readme.md

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...@@ -14,6 +14,34 @@ The device runs on a single 9V battery and outputs it's signal on a 6.3mm audio ...@@ -14,6 +14,34 @@ The device runs on a single 9V battery and outputs it's signal on a 6.3mm audio
For Wiring look no further than here: For Wiring look no further than here:
![](images/wiring_diagram.png) ![](images/wiring_diagram.png)
## How to Build
1. Solder in the IC-sockets first:
- make sure the small notch in the socket aligns with the notch on the silkscreen graphics
- solder two diagonal corner pins first
- once everything is flush solder the rest of the pins
2. Solder the ceramic capacitors (next to the IC-sockets)
3. Solder the red film capacitors
4. Solder the 100k resistors
- bend one leg around, so it fits the vertical footprint
5. Solder the IDC pins for the jumpers
6. Solder the TRS jack
7. Prepare 17 short cables, for each:
- cut the cable to length (depends on the case used)
- strip the isolation off the wire at both ends, drill the exposed copper strands
- tin both sides of the cables
8. Solder the cables to the controls:
- 3 for volume potentiometer
- 2 for timbre potentiometer
- 2 for drone switch
- 2 for fire button (do not solder this one yet!)
- 6 for frequency potentiometer
- 2 for power switch (if needed)
9. Solder the connectors to the PCB in the appropriate places (see graphic above)
10. Drill holes in the case (for potentiometers, switches etc) and put all the controls in
11. Solder the fire button
12. Test
## Errata (revision 0.9) ## Errata (revision 0.9)
There is a mistake with the output power switching in revision `0.9` – gladly this is easily fixed, by drilling away a pad and bridging a connection: There is a mistake with the output power switching in revision `0.9` – gladly this is easily fixed, by drilling away a pad and bridging a connection:
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